Help With Sizing

Things to consider:

• Age
• Level of Play
• Desired Fit (Loose or Tight)

To fit a hockey glove, you must first decide what style of glove you like better. This is purely personal preference, and usually pertains to what the user has worn in the past. A tighter fitting glove reduces negative space and feels like a second skin. These may feel better on the fingers and palm however you will notice a reduced amount of mobility around the wrist. A looser or more traditional fit glove, will feel more like a box around the hand, fitting wider in all areas.

Also keep in mind the gap between the cuff of the glove and the users elbow pad. You want to try and minimize this gap as much as possible. And if the player does prefer a glove with a shorter cuff, take a look at using an item such as slash or wrist guard to protect the area in between.

Fitting for Growth Room:

When fitting a player who is still growing, you will want to add growth room into the fit of the glove. However, as always, you cannot add too much or the gloves will fit sloppy and take away from performance. To determine if a glove is too big, have the user place their hand inside as they would if they were playing. Next take your index finger and determine how much additional room is between the top of their palm and the edge of the cuff. Typically you want no more room than the width of your index finger. Then have the player press their fingers against the palm so you can see the outlines, make sure their pinky finger is at least 3/4" of the way into the pinky slot. A quick way to test for a proper fit is to pick the stick up off the ground by the shaft, if this cannot be done easily, the glove is probably too big.

To determine if the glove is too small, have the user place their hand inside as they would if they were playing. Take your fingers and feel along the inner cuff of the glove above the palm material. Make sure that user's palm is not spilling over the palm material and onto the cuff. Next have the player press their fingers against the palm so you can see the outlines of their fingers. You want their fingers to fit in each finger slot but they should not be pressed up against the edge or touching.

Fitting for True Size:

When fitting a glove true to size, keep in mind that this is the smallest the glove will ever fit. Over time and with prolonged use, the foams will compress and the leathers will stretch marginally. To determine the correct size, put the glove on your hand as if to use it. You will want to take a look at two things: one – make sure your fingers are all the way in the finger slots but not pressing into the gussets on the end, a good fitting glove will leave your fingers so that they are just able to brush the tips of the gussets, and two – make sure your palm is not spilling over the end of the palm material and onto the inner cuff.

Each glove and brand will position placement of the thumb slightly differently, so trying on a few until you find a comfortable pair is a good idea. As well, many different types of palms are available, so you must decide if you wanted a regular “Nash” leather palm, a Pro palm (all leather, usually the most durable) or any other type of palm. High density foams and plastic inserts in certain areas are ideal but those features are usually found on the top level models. The protection level of the glove should match your style of play. We recommend that you get the highest level of protection that you can afford.

Compare your height, weight and age to the charts provided to find your best fit. As well measure (in inches) from the tip of your middle finger up your hand and to the start of your elbow pad. This measurement will correlate directly with a recommended glove size (i.e. if you measure 14.5" you will want a 15" glove).

Things to consider:

• Age, Height and Weight
• Level of Play
• Distance Between the Middle of the Kneecap and top of your Skate

When sizing a shin pad, you must determine first if you will wear the shin pad over top of the skate tongue, or if the skate tongue will sit in front of shin pad and “flop” forward. This will determine the length of the shin pad you will want.

Your knee should fit directly into the center of the kneecap, which is usually lined and padded to help direct it and provide comfort. Once the pad is strapped to your leg, it should be secure and snug and should NOT be able to twist, rotate or slide freely. There are many strapping systems offered and you must decide what you like and dislike. On some models you will find anchor straps or thicker straps which can offer a better more secure fit. Anchor straps are made up of a stretchy knit material and usually fasten above or below the calf muscle. These straps are designed to anchor the pad in place and not allow it to slide up or down. Thicker straps across the calf wrap/guard are also often used, these straps help provide full protection to your leg ensuring that the calf guard reaches across your leg.

Keep in mind that as you go up in price you will usually see more adjustments, options and higher density foams and technologies used. You must determine within your budget, which shin pad offers the most features that you want, as well as provides the most comfort.

Sizing a Shin Pad over top of your Skate Tongue:

To size a shin pad correctly when fitting over top of your skate tongue, measure the length (in inches) of your leg from the middle of your knee cap, when it is bent at a 90 degree angle, to the top of the boot of the skate. Once you have this measurement, round the number up to the next whole number (i.e. 13.2" becomes 14"). Because the shin pad is sitting over top of the skate tongue, it enables you to wear a slightly bigger pad without compromising mobility. This is usually seen as an upside because you get extra protection in areas like the tongue of your skate.

If you are sizing a player and want to include growth room, we do recommend this method as well, because it allows for a bigger pad to be worn, again without compromising motion or mobility.

Sizing a Shin Pad underneath your Skate Tongue:

To size a shin pad correctly when fitting under the top of your skate tongue, measure the length (in inches) of your leg from the middle of your knee cap, when it is bent at a 90 degree angle, to the top of the boot of the skate. Once you have this measurement, round the number down to the next whole number (i.e. 13.7" becomes 13"). Because the shin pad is sitting underneath the skate tongue, the pad will not be able to sit right against the edge of the skate and thus a slightly shorter shin pad is used. If a shin pad that is too big is tried on, you will notice that the shin pad is shifted up and the kneecap falls out of the designated spot. If this happens your shin and knee will not be properly protected and you are more susceptible to having your shin pad rotate or move as well.

Compare your height, weight and age to the charts provided to find your best fit. As well, use the measurement that was taken above to compare to the provided charts. Another good estimation is to look at your old/existing shin pads to see what size they are. If you are growing and have outgrown them, the next size up is probably for you. If you liked the way your shin pads felt, it may be smart to continue with the same size.

Things to consider:

• Age, Height and Weight
• Chest Size
• Level of Play

The fitting of Shoulder Pads is relatively easy and there is a lot of personal preference involved. A proper fitting shoulder pad should be mobile and comfortable to wear and not restrictive. Higher levels of play will require a more protective shoulder pad, keep in mind however that more protective doesn’t always mean bulkier. Some of the better designs offer great mobility while still offering a high level of protection.

It is extremely important for sizing to make sure that your shoulders fit directly underneath the shoulder caps of the pad. If your shoulders do not sit correctly underneath the pads and land on either side of the cap, your clavicles, shoulders, biceps and upper arms will not be properly protected.

Most shoulder pads will come with built in adjustments. Some will be more adjustable than others and include adjustments in areas such as the shoulder caps, chest width or length of straps. The most common area of adjustment is on the bicep pads. Most will allow you to raise and lower this pad so you do not interfere with the elbow pads. This is a great adjustment when sizing kids as well, as you may lower the bicep guard as they grow taller.

When measuring for chest size, measure the circumference of the chest just below the arm pits. All shoulder pads will have a matching size or range of sizing within the charts to help direct you.

When viewing sizing online, most shoulder pads will be offered in Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large. Sizing charts are provided below and on each product to double check where you line up and as well list all the sizes available. These charts are for reference only and personal preference is a factor as well when looking for the best fit.

Things to consider:

• Age, Height and Weight
• Waist Size
• Level of Play

When sizing for player pants, preference will largely determine how loose the waist of the pants fit. Your pants should fit comfortably around you, and most people like the waist to fit snug, but not too tight. A pant should fit so the belt is sitting right above your hips and around your waist.

Pants come equipped with at least one belt or fastening system to help them secure to your waist. You want to make sure that they are comfortable but not too loose so that they shift or fall down as you move or skate.

You may choose to use suspenders to help hold the pant up, however they are not required by any means. Most pants will come with suspender “buttons” to fasten to, but make sure you double check with the model you are interested in to make sure. Suspenders can be helpful when fitting for growth to allow for growth room as it will allow you additional length, without having to keep a tight waist. Pants are also available in “Long” or “Tall” versions which offer 1" additional length without having to move up a waist size.

Fitting for Growth Room:

To fit a pant for growth room, make sure the pant fits securely around the waist, and the belt of the pant is sitting just above the hip bones. You want the pant to come down as far as possible however if it is fit too big, it will interfere with the shin pads and restrict movement. As a general rule, a pant with growth room should be in line with the bottom of the knee cap when standing straight legged and fastened at the waist. When you bend your knees and move into a ‘hockey stance’ the pant should slide up the knee and end up around the middle of the knee cap. A pant is too small once it does not reach the top of knee cap, standing straight legged.

Fitting for True Size:

To fit a pant true to size, make sure the pant fits securely around the waist, and the belt of the pant is sitting just above the hip bones. You want the pants to be long enough so they protect your thighs but not too long so that they interfere with your shin pads. We recommend a pant to fit between the middle and top of the knee cap, when you are standing straight legged. When you bend your knees and move into a ‘hockey stance’ the pant should slide up to fall in line with the top of your shin pads.

When viewing sizing online, most Pants will be offered in Small, Medium and Large and Extra-Large. Sizing charts are provided and on each product to double check where you line up and as well list all the sizes available. These charts are for reference only and personal preference is a factor as well when looking for the best fit. Protection levels will vary depending on the model you choose. As a general rule, the higher price points will offer more hip, kidney and tailbone protection without too much bulk.

Compare your height, weight, age and waist size to the charts provided to find your best fit. If you are looking at a “Tall” version of a pant, the waist size on the chart will be accurate, however the length will represent that of the next size bigger.

Things You Need To Know Before Ordering:

• Age, Height and Weight
• Last Brand & Model of skate worn as well as size (length & width)
• Actual Foot Size

You will need the following items to correctly measure foot size:

• 2 pieces of Legal sized paper
• 1 pencil or pen
• A tape measure
• 2 books

To determine this, have the person be seated and wearing the same thickness of sock as he or she would wear when skating (we recommend a thin performance/moisture wicking sock). Measure each foot separately by placing the foot on a piece of legal sized paper (11 X 14). Now, while sitting, slide a book up against the back of the heel and the other book up against the longest toe. Make a mark on the paper at the heel & toe. Measure the exact distance between the lines and write it down on the paper, labelling it left or right foot. To determine the width, slide the books against the widest part of the forefoot and mark both sides.

Measure the distance between these marks and record the measurement on the paper.

Most skate manufacturers size their skates differently than shoe sizing. Skates normally fit 1-1.5 sizes smaller than your shoe size. Please remember that every foot has a unique shape and that these are guidelines only.

For on ice performance, the skate is the single most important piece of equipment you wear. It’s important that you have someone help you with the measuring.

If you are unclear of how to measure, call us – we can help you over the phone: 1-800-567-7790

A proper fit for skates…

Start with trying your new skates on with a moisture wicking performance sock. A proper fitting sock will reduce slippage and help to provide an optimal fit.

Lace the skate up and spend a few minutes walking around to get your heel placed to the rear of the skate.

Stand with your feet placed at shoulder width apart with your legs locked straight.

Your toes should be barely touching the toe cap. Once you bend your knees slightly, you should find that your toes will have enough room to clear the end of the toe cap.

It’s important that you make sure that your heel doesn’t slip up and down once you are walking around in the skate before taking it out on the ice. Heel slippage is the number one cause of blistering.

To fit the player or goalie who is still growing, have the toes barely touching the end of the toecap. The width of a ballpoint pen should be able to slip in behind the heel comfortably. This gives the foot room to grow but not so that the heel will slip and cause an improper fit.

A poor fitting skate can create bad habits and break down prematurely while holding back skate performance. Another problem that can occur are blisters or heel spurs.

A good way to break in your new skates is to spend some time in them at home. You could also use a hair dryer to warm them, but be careful not to overheat any one area. Let them completely cool before walking in them.

The more time that you can spend with your new skates laced up will help reduce the break in period and your feet will feel better when you hit the ice for the first skate with them.

Remember to wear rubber skate guards to avoid damage to floors.

All skates purchased from thehockeyshop.com come with a free sharpening. Be sure to specify what hollow you would like your skates sharpened at.

Maintenance for your skates…

Make sure you dry your skates out after each use. This will prolong the life of the skates and help keep the odor factor down.

To prolong the life of your rivets and help prevent excessive rusting, pull out the foot bed each time you dry your skates.

Check your blades frequently as nicked edges can occur from walking on dirty flooring either on the bench or in the locker room. Exposed concrete or screws that get stepped on in the rink will also do damage to edges. It’s time for a sharpening if you feel like you’re slipping during push off.

Having properly sharpened skates is extremely important. The depth of hollow that is best for you is a personal preference.

Keep in mind that sharper does not mean quicker. Less hollow = More glide.

Things to consider:

• Age, Height and Weight
• Level of Play
• Length of Area of Desired Protection

When fitting or trying on elbow pads, there are a few things to look at to make sure you have a proper fit. To start, make sure your elbow is placed in the center of the cup or designated area and fasten the elbow pad using the straps. You will want to make sure that the elbow pad is snug and secure and will not slip off the elbow joint. As well, move your arms around with each pad on, range of motion is key, and you will feel mobility differences in each product. If the elbow pad is too big it will shift and slide around on your arm. If it is too small your elbow will feel like it is sitting above the pad.

Elbow pad strapping is semi-adjustable, so if you find a pad that you like the feel of on your arm, adjust the straps until it fits securely. If the strapping feels too tight against your arm and you are unable to loosen it further, this is a good sign that you may need a bigger size. As well if you have fully tightened the strapping and the elbow pad is still loose or shifting on your arm, a size down will probably work better.

When looking at different elbow pads, there are a variety of different features to choose from. Some models will be offered in a soft elbow cap (although this is becoming more uncommon) and others will come with a hard plastic shell. As well, strapping systems can change and straps such as anchor straps or lock straps will provide a better lock to the pad than a regular elastic strap. These features are personal preference and usually are dictated by price range as well as brand.

When viewing sizing online, most elbow pads will be offered in Small, Medium and Large. Sizing charts are provided below and on each product to double check where you line up and as well list all the sizes available. These charts are for reference only and personal preference is a factor as well when looking for the best fit.

Compare your height, weight and age to the charts provided to find your best fit. As well, put on your shoulder pad and gloves and have someone measure the space/gap in between (in inches) to determine the proper sizing.

Pro-Formance Advantage® Stick Fitting Protocol

One Piece composite sticks are now the number one selling category for many Source For Sports® stores. The fact is that it takes a great deal of knowledge to help a player choose the right stick for his or her game.

Things to consider:

• Materials and Construction of a Stick
• Stick Options (Curves, Blade Depth, Blade Angle, Toe Shape, Stick Flex, Flex Points, Stick Lie and Grip)
• Stick Sizing (Cutting Sticks and the effects cutting has on Flex)

Materials and Construction

The main materials used in the construction of one-piece sticks are graphite, Kevlar and fiberglass. In lower end sticks this composite mixture is mostly fiberglass with a small amount of graphite, making the stick heavier but usually more durable. In high-end sticks there is a greater percentage of graphite and Kevlar added for durability. The amount of graphite makes these sticks very light and increases performance.

Stick Construction Methods:

• Compression molding – Multiple layers of thin composite are put onto a steel mandrill mold and compressed into shape. Creates very consistent shape and feel.
• Bladder moulding – Composite materials are moulded over an inflated bladder inside a mould. This process has more inconsistencies.
• True spear technology – Layers of composite blade are fused onto the spear end of a shaft. Provides great energy transfer with no joint or weak spot.
• Shaft and blade fusion – A shaft and blade are put together then finished with layers of composite.

Stick Options

• Curves – Heel/Mid/Toe curves indicate where the curve is most prominent. Heel curves offer better accuracy and harder wrist shots. Mid curves are the most common and offer the best of both worlds. Toe curves are great for quick snap shots and toe drags but harder to control.
• Blade Depth – How deep the curve is.
• Blade Angle – Open face is easier for lifting the puck quickly. Closed face is better for controlling and protecting the puck.
• Toe Shape – Square toe offers more blade area. Round toe offers better puck control.
• Stick Flex – Senior: 75, 85, 95, 100, 110. Intermediate: 55–75. Junior: 40–50. Youth: 20–40. Players want to fully flex the stick – too soft means inaccurate shots; too stiff means no power.
• Flex Points – Mid-flex sticks have a stiffer taper for powerful slap shots. Low-flex sticks flex near the blade for quicker wrist and snap shots.
• Stick Lie – Describes the angle of the blade relative to the shaft. A lower lie suits bent-over skaters or longer sticks. A higher lie suits upright skaters with shorter sticks. Adding length puts the blade on the heel; cutting puts it on the toe.
• Grip – Traditional clear finish allows easy hand movement. Grip coatings prevent the stick from twisting during shots. Raised tactile grip offers control without limiting hand movement. Personal preference.

Sizing

Cutting Sticks and Effects on Flex: The flex rating assumes full length. Cutting a stick makes it stiffer – the general rule is every inch cut adds approximately 3% stiffness. Some brands (like Bauer) mark flex ratings at different cut points on the shaft.

Cutting Sticks: While the customer is standing on their flat feet, mark the stick at nose height. On tip toes, mark near the chin. Have them hold the stick at that height to check comfort, keeping in mind they’ll be wearing skates. Once the length is decided, clamp the stick straight for cutting.

Putting it all together: Fitting a customer for a stick is not a perfect science. No set of measurements can find the perfect stick for every player. But asking the right questions combined with product knowledge can help find the right stick. A pure shooter who is tall and strong may benefit from a stiffer stick with a higher flex point and aggressive curve. A shorter player who passes a lot may prefer a low kick point with a light flex and straighter curve. The final decision always belongs to the player.

When sizing for Leg Pads, there are a few things to consider: mid-ankle to mid-knee (outer ankle bone to middle of knee cap); mid-knee to mid-thigh; skate size; level of play; and potential growth.

The fitting of Leg Pads is relatively easy, however, there are some variables. Potential growth and preference are the two main variables to consider. Also, elite goalies, or even goalies that are frequently on the ice, should consider a higher quality pad.

Measuring mid-ankle to mid-knee will show you what size pad you would be in, in accordance to a sizing chart, without the plus sizing. Measuring mid-knee to mid-thigh will give you a rough idea of what plus size measurement you could use. However, the initial size of the pad is more important than the overall size of the pad.

Senior Pad Sizing:

It is very important in Leg Pad sizing to make sure the center of your knee places roughly 1.5 inches below the middle of the knee stack. It is crucial that it is NOT the top of your knee (where your knee cap meets your thigh) that is 1.5" below the middle of the knee stack, because you will not land on the knee stack while in the butterfly. 1.5" will provide a sufficient amount of growing room, while still allowing the user to have proper control of their pads.

Intermediate, Junior or Youth Pad Sizing:

If you are sizing up for an Intermediate, Junior or Youth size pad, the knee stack will be smaller than a senior. In this case, the center of your knee should be roughly 1 inch below the center of the knee stack. It is crucial that it is NOT the top of your knee (where your knee cap meets your thigh) that is 1" below the middle of the knee stack, because you will not land on the knee stack while in the butterfly. 1" will provide a sufficient amount of growing room, while still allowing the user to have proper control of their pads.

Perfect Fit (Finished Growing):

If you are near the end of growing, or finished growing completely, you want to land directly in the middle of the knee stack. This is considered a perfect fit. Being in the center of the knee stack gives you best control of the pad while playing, as well as evenly distributing your weight throughout the pad while in the butterfly to give a proper seal on the ice.

When viewing sizing online, most leg pads will be offered in sizes we have in stock. Sizing charts are provided below and on each product to double check where you line up and as well list all the sizes available. These charts are for reference only and personal preference is a factor as well when looking for the best fit.

More times than not, trappers are often overlooked compared to other pieces of gear where fit is concerned. Perhaps this is a result of the limited sizes available: youth, junior, intermediate and senior. The first step to finding the correct trapper is to approximate your size by following the estimated age range and “heel-of-palm-to-tip-of-middle-finger” measurement:

• Youth (age 5–8): 4.5” – 5.75” / 119–143 mm
• Junior (age 8–11): 5.75” – 6.35” / 144–160 mm
• Intermediate (age 11–13): 6.35” – 7” / 161–178 mm
• Senior (age 14+): 7” – 8.5” / 179–216 mm

*8”–8.5” would constitute an XL palm on a senior trapper

Once a size has been estimated it is important to ensure that the palm lines up properly within the catching glove so that it can be closed without excessive force. Obviously new gloves will be difficult to close initially, but through either using it repeatedly or baking it with our in-house convection skate ovens they will soften up and allow the goaltender to easily close. We do not recommend using any conventional in-home ovens, as the results have been very unpredictable in the past.

After you’ve checked the palm, the second thing to look for is that the wrist strap goes directly across your wrist bone and has little to no interference with the chest/arm. The catch glove should be able to twist and maneuver in a multitude of save selections in addition to being able to grip the stick when puck handling, all the while keeping the hand in the correct position within the trapper.

For growing goaltenders, it is still best to stick within these guidelines rather than moving up to the next size to accommodate growth. Large gloves are going to inhibit the goalie’s control and inhibit development. It should be noted that as a result of the limited size selection, goalies wouldn’t jump sizes as quickly as other pieces of gear.

More times than not, blockers are often overlooked compared to other pieces of gear where fit is concerned. Perhaps this is a result of the limited sizes available: youth, junior, intermediate and senior. The first step to finding the correct blocker is to approximate your size by following the estimated age range and “heel-of-palm-to-tip-of-middle-finger” measurement:

• Youth (age 5–8): 4.5” – 5.75” / 119–143 mm
• Junior (age 8–11): 5.75” – 6.35” / 144–160 mm
• Intermediate (age 11–13): 6.35” – 7” / 161–178 mm
• Senior (age 14+): 7” – 8.5” / 179–216 mm

*8”–8.5” would constitute an XL palm on a senior blocker

Once a size has been approximated it is important to ensure that the finger tips lie close to the seam at the fingertips or within 0.5" if the goaltender is growing. This is important to ensure that the goalie can maintain control of the stick while making saves in addition to being able to maneuver the blocker when playing the puck.

Another thing to look for is that the wrist strap goes directly across the wrist bone and has little to no interference with the chest/arm. The wearer should be able to swivel their wrist to accommodate a range of save selections without any restrictions from the chest protector.

Sizing a chest protector is important to ensure the goaltender’s range of motion (ROM) is uninhibited while still offering complete coverage from impact. The first step is to approximate the size using the sizing charts listed on any individual chest protector’s product page on our website; usually this is accomplished by matching an arm span or height to a given size.

After a size has been approximated, the goaltender is going to want to make sure of the following criteria to ensure an ideal fit:

1. Arms – The arms end just before the wrist bone. This is important to ensure wrist straps on blockers/trappers have little interference. For growing goalies, just over the wrist bone is a good rule of thumb; this still provides ample room for the gloves while usually lasting 1.5–2 years. Some models come with adjustable arm lengths.
2. Elbows – The elbows fit securely in the pocket of the plastic protector and don’t shift too far away from them.
3. Belly – The belly portion extends to the waistline if worn outside the pant and allows the goaltender to crouch comfortably. If tucked into the pants, this length can usually be extended by 2”–4”.
4. Shoulders – The shoulder caps sit square on the wearer and wrap around the body rather than protruding upwards. There should be a small gap between the collar and neck; the head should look downwards freely while ensuring complete coverage in the ready position.

After confirming these criteria, it is always a good idea to see how well the chest/arm integrates with your goal pants, mask and gloves. The goaltender should be able to get in and out of the crouch without excess interference; gloves shouldn’t be pushed from the arm and a full ROM should be achieved for all save selections in addition to puck handling.

New units are usually stiff, but with time movement and overall comfort will improve. The best way to speed up the break-in process is steam. It is recommended to stay away from direct washing/excess water to prevent premature foam break down.

Goalie pants offer substantially more protection than their player counterparts: the hips are reinforced with high-density foam, the thighs are squared off for coverage and made with thick plastic and foam, and the waist is beefed up to protect vital organs. The way the two pants move is also different: player pants move back and forth while goal pants are designed for lateral movements.

Properly sized goal pants are the difference between having your chest protector ride up and seamless integration for unrestricted movement. After all, they connect the biggest pieces of gear a goaltender wears – their chest/arm and leg pads.

The first step is to approximate the size using the sizing charts listed on any individual goal pant’s product page on our website. Usually this is accomplished by matching a waist to a given size. Sometimes companies (ex. Vaughn) will list an oversized waist; you can match your size by adding 8”–10” to your measured size. Matching up waist sizes exactly isn’t always necessary. It is very common for goalies to wear pants that are wider to increase net coverage, mobility and comfort.

Unlike player pants, the goalie version isn’t necessarily always worn directly on the waist. It is very common for goaltenders to wear their pants high on the waist (oversized) with suspenders, or so low and loose (undersized) that the leg pads are the only things holding them in place. After deciding which one feels more comfortable for your playing style, it is important that the pant is sized such that they terminate above the kneecap – leaving ample room for the knee wing of the leg pad to rest on the inside edge of the knee.

Another thing to consider is if the goalie wears his/her chest protector tucked into the pant or outside. If you’re the former, a pant with an internal belt, non-tapered waist and bigger size is going to accommodate the extra bulk. If you’re wearing the chest protector on the outside, a tapered waist is going to reduce interference and improve feel.

Lastly, it is crucial to ensure that the pant works well with additional knee protection and the leg pads. We recommend trying everything on at once to make sure there is limited interference and enough space in the thigh cradle for knee protection without overly restricting movement.

When purchasing a new mask it is crucial to ensure that it fits properly. Even entry-level masks with a proper fit will do a better job at protecting the head compared to a superior model that is ill fitted. Unlike other pieces of gear, we usually wouldn’t size for growth as a) it sacrifices protection and b) the mask will expand over time creating more room for a growing head.

The first step is to approximate the size using the sizing charts listed on any individual mask’s product page on our website; usually this is accomplished by matching a head circumference and/or hat size to a given mask size. When measuring your head’s circumference, it is important to measure at approximately 1” above the eyebrows while keeping the tape measure parallel (at the “hat line”) around the entire head. Hat sizes used should be those of fitted hats that aren’t overly tight or loose.

Four parameters for a proper fit:

1. The top edge of the window (opening inside the cage) is about 1” above the eyebrows and the sweatband inside the mask sits directly on the skin (no gap between the mask and forehead).
2. The backplate hugs the back of the goaltender’s head and its edges don’t extend past the edges of the mask’s shell. We want to reduce gaps at the back of the head and ensure the head is secure inside the mask.
3. The chin cup is tightened such that it is worn securely against the chin and prevents the mask from shifting up and down while on the head.
4. The temples and/or cheeks are snug against the foam of the mask such that there are little to no visible gaps on each side of the head and prevents the mask from shifting laterally.

An indicator of good fit: try grabbing the cage and shaking the mask back and forth – if the mask forces your head to move (rather than the mask moving on your head) you’ve got a great fit!

Lastly, be sure to check your fit every few months or so as compressed foams, dented cages and stretched harnesses will make the mask loose over time.

Unlike other pieces of gear, sticks are sized mostly to the goaltender’s preference and playing style rather than their height. The most important measurement, when purchasing a new goal stick, is the paddle height (the wide portion of the stick), which is usually taken from the heel of the stick to the shaft/paddle interface.

The reason for the paddle height’s significance is because it sets up the goaltender’s depth in the ready stance and (if properly sized) positions the blocker in an optimal position.

How to measure:

To start, put on at least your goal skates and if you’re looking to be more accurate strap on your pads and blocker as well. Once that is done get into your natural stance (the one you’d be in during a majority of gameplay) and look for the following:

1. The entire blade of the stick is flush with the ground while being 1’–2’ in front of the goaltender’s feet.
2. While satisfying the above, the inside edge of the blocker hand (while holding just above the paddle) sits on the outside edge of the goal pad. This ensures that there is no double coverage with the goal pad (stick is too small) and keeps the seven-hole sealed (stick is too large).

The reason stick sizing can be so subjective compared to other pieces of equipment is the ambiguity of “natural stance,” especially with young goaltenders. It is rather common for children to use taller sticks in comparison to their height, as their stance depth isn’t usually as aggressive as a seasoned goalie.

The shaft length, on the other hand, is usually best left at its stock length as it serves to counteract the weight of the blade and (ideally) place the center of gravity at the top of the paddle. The one exception to this rule is for advanced puck handlers – cutting the shaft will allow more power transfer when shooting as a result of being able to keep the blade flush to the ice while near the goaltender’s feet.

Note: Be careful with Bauer goal sticks: they measure about 2” shorter than all other brands due to a different paddle height measurement.